Thursday, January 27, 2011
Trip to Vietnam: Part 2: "Ritual Components"
The first major cultural experience I had in Vietnam was going out with  my mom on a mission to perform a traditional Vietnamese prayer ritual to  pray for the health of her brother, who is in the hospital with cancer.  Religion in Vietnam is an eclectic mix of Buddhism, animism, and lots  of ancestor worship, so it is kind of interesting. The theory behind  Vietnamese intercessory prayer is that you have to "save a life to get a  life", and the way you "save a life" is by purchasing small animals to  release into the water at the pagoda (a kind of temple). There is a  street in Hanoi that has a market that happens every five days where you  can buy animals for this purpose. We went to the market but couldn't  find what we were looking for. My mom forgot to bring her Vietnamese  phrase book, so in order to communicate with the locals he had to take  out a BlackBerry and use a free translation Web site. At first we asked  about where to buy "animals to release for good luck," and we were  directed to a street that seemed to just have some pet stores, but no  market. We also asked where the "five day market" was but they couldn't  understand us. Eventually we found our way to a fish store that had  someone who spoke English, and they informed us that the "five day  market" actually occurred the previous day. So we just bought three fish  there for 5,000 Vietnamese dong (about $0.25) each, what a later  passerby informed us was a "rip-off", and it should have ben more like  2,000 dong ($0.10). There were also lots of vendors that sell votive  offerings to burn, including packages of replica $100 bills. We went to  the pagoda, where we pray in front of a large golden Buddha flanked by  columns of packaged food items, then go to an area where we burn the  money to have it rise up to our ancestors, and then went to release the  fish. Since I was under the impression that Buddhism was all about  transcending your material needs, I was surprised to see the commercial  imagery such as the money and big golden stuff. It's clear the  Vietnamese are really into the whole religion thing, as throughout  Vietnam there are a whole bunch of vendors selling ritual components,  including paper replicas of motorbikes and clothes to burn. According to  Vietnamese tradition, burning paper replicas of things is how you send  them up to heaven to provide for your ancestors in the afterlife, and  Vietnamese believe that your ancestors need the same things in the  afterlife that they needed in our life. For example, if your ancestor  was a heroin addict, you should burn paper replicas of heroin needles to  send them up there. It makes sense, I guess, because if you're already  dead anyway, it can't harm you any more to inject some heroin, right?
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